Ilhéu das Rolas - The Equator Island of Sao Tome

(All photos by Raghu Gururaj)

The charming island nation of Sao Tome and Principe is one of the few places in the world, where the equator passes through. The other 12 countries are Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil Gabon, Republic of Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Uganda, Kenya, Somalia and Indonesia. In Maldives and Kiribati, it passes through their territorial waters.

In Sao Tome, the equator runs right through the Islet of Ilhéu das Rolas, located a few miles from its southern tip, before proceeding eastward to the continent of Africa. Also known as the Equator Island or the Island of Turtle Doves, it is located at an elevation of over 300 feet above sea level.

This was proven by the Portuguese cartographer and navigator Gago Coutinho visited São Tomé somewhere between 1915 to 1918. During his scientific expedition to map the island, he proved that latitude zero indeed crossed Ilhéu das Rolas, instead of passing between the islet and São Tomé, as had been previously supposed.

The Island, which is just two square kilometers, is a mere 6 degrees longitude off the Prime Meridian line. It is also the nearest landmass to the coordinates 00N 00E.

The main symbolic attraction of the island is a small monument erected in 1936, that marks the geodesic point on the Equator. A beautiful marker in the form of a stone structure and a tile mosaic map of the world on the ground underneath the monument, signifies the location of the crossing of the equatorial line. Between April and August, the shadow of the monument points South West, implying the sun is several degrees North.

Standing on the imaginary line 0, with one foot in Northern and the other in the Southern hemisphere, I was overcome by an perceived feeling of standing at the centre of the earth. It is said that the gravitational inflexion at that point reduces a body's weight by less than a kilo on the northern side. I had no way to verify this.

From a purely geologically standpoint, Sao Toméans are proud of their geothermal heritage and consider their country as the centre of the world. But living in this acutely insulated, albeit beautiful, island nation, I could hardly feel that centrality in a broader sense.

Typical of all the places touched by the equator elsewhere, locals say that, here too, both sunrises and sunsets happen in a matter of minutes.

Apart from the thrill of standing in different hemispheres, a belvedere provides stunning and panoramic 360 degree views of the Lama-Porco and Francisco volcanic peaks, surrounding pristine beaches, fishing villages and the lush Sao Tome island at the near distance.

A lighthouse on the islet, built in 1929 and measuring 100 feet, serves as a vantage viewing point for passing vessels and occasionally, dolphins. The Pestana Equador resort on the island is a monopolistic business entity and therefore, the largest employer. This satellite resort islet is populated by less than 150 residents, whose lives are linked to foreign tourists. Some though depend on subsistence farming and fishing.

The only way to reach this islet is through ferry from the fishing village of Port Alegre on the southernmost tip of mainland Sao Tome.

The ride is just 20 minutes and is best remembered for the magical views of the mighty Atlantic, the cool volcanic cones at a distance and sandy windswept beaches awaiting the destination. Although its distance to land might be near, the short boat ride is an adventure.

The 20-minute boat ride feels longer and sometimes risky, due to massive, deep waves, especially when the sea gets choppy, challenging the rickety canoes. These waters are sometimes home to humpback whales which circle the island between July and October.

A popular walking trail in the village leads to a lush green forest that holds the equator point, a botanical garden, fishing village, banana plantation and rows of almond tree clusters.

As a rare geological landmark, the journey to this centre of the world has become a mandatory stop for most visitors. At least for its symbolism is surely an instagrammable place to be.