The Magic of Lake Toba

The enormous crater lake of Lake Toba in North Sumatra must surely count as one of the natural wonders of the world. Holding an island almost the size of Singapore in its cradle, the lake spreads over 1200 sq kms and 400 metres in depth. As the largest lake in Southeast Asia and one of the deepest in the world, one cannot fault the tourist for mistaking it for an ocean.

(Lake Toba- Photo: Shuttercock)

Located about 90 kms from Medan city, Lake Toba can be reached through a combination of toll road, winding highland paths and a ferry ride (with the car). The drive away from Medan city itself could be exhilarating as one is transported through a breaktaking experience of highland country scenery where the air is a lot cooler and fresher and surrounded by lush green landscapes and quaint little towns.

As I traversed through winding roads of the highlands, I felt suddenly enveloped by lush blankets of forest area on either side. Driving up further, a cacophony of forest cries of birds and monkeys greeted me. I did sight some highland monkeys who were waiting on the edges of these roads, looking for crumbs from travellers. After navigating an hour and a half through these snaked forest roads, I suddenly glimpsed the sparkling blue waters of Lake Toba on one side, with the forest on the other.

Forest landscape on way to Parapat (Photo credit Raghu Gururaj)

The immensity of Lake Toba, in Parapat region, is simply overwhelming. Surrounded by cool blue waters on all sides, its volcanic origins have endowed the lake with enviable foliage. Narrow roads flanked by rows of traditional houses, roadside eateries and coffee shops wind up and down right all the way to the city centre. Looking at such magical surroundings, I was consumed by a strange liberating feeling, as if nothing more really mattered in life! The sheer expanse, purity colour and tranquility it can bring to the viewer is to be experienced.

View of Lake Toba while descending to Parapat (Raghu Gururaj)

Born out of caldera of a supervolcano several years ago, at first sight it looks like a sea, though without the currents and waves. Lake Toba snakes all around the region touching several land points including Parapet and the island of Samosir Island. The lake followed us as we descended the highlands to reach Parapat city. A 45 minute ferry ride for the car and two passengers (US$ 6 only) takes you to Samosir Island.

Traditional hotels, inns overlooking Lake Toba (Raghu Gururaj)

Most travellers visiting Lake Toba as part of their Indonesian vacation look forward to beautiful sights and visual delights, but very few are prepared for the cultural feast that awaits them. Touted as one of the next "Balis", Lake Toba region is not just an aesthetic marvel, but also a treasure hove of cultural delights.

Samosir is one of larger islands in Lake Toba region. Aside of its advantages of natural beauty, Samosir has an intriguing culture. It is populated by the Batak people, who are predominantly Christian (as contrasted with majority Muslim populace in North Sumatra and Indonesia in general), though there are practising Batak Muslims as well, with a tiny minority being agnostic.

Local houses overlooking Lake Toba (Raghu Gururaj)

European missionaries in late 19th century introduced Christianity. As the largest indigenous tribal groups in North Sumatra, Bataks are believed to have their descendants from ancient Burma. Some say there is an Indian connection, though nowhere corroborated.

Batak architecture is a sight to behold and gives you a surreal feeling. A traditional Batak house (‘jabu”or rumah bolon’) is a wooden construct made of special palm fibre. Made entirely without nails and anywhere between 40 to 60 feet tall, it has no doors and can only be entered using a ladder via a trapdoor through a raised floor or stilts. And No windows!

With sharp jutting rooftops, it is decorated with colourful mosaics and carvings of animals and birds (to denote fertility or protection of the house). There is a water buffalo head looking down from the roof, signifying blessings to visitors with prosperity.

Traditional Batak House (notice the buffalo head on top) (Google)

Traditional Batak House (Raghu Gururaj)

Their unique culture is also manifested in the ‘Ulos’, a typical traditional woven fabric symbolizing filial bonds. Worn usually during traditional rituals and occasions, it is a signature status symbol of Batak culture but also used as gifts on ceremonial occasions. As a highly signaturized textile product of this region, it comes in a variety of colours and designs and the preparation of the fabric is a painstaking affair.

To those who are familiar with the culture of Northeast India, they may find resemblance in the weaving technique and designs of the some Ulos products. In fact, some of the cotton yarn for making Ulos products is imported from India.

Ulos making at the weaving village (Credit: Maula039-Own work -https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=88113661)

A visit to Samosir is incomplete without witnessing ‘Tor Tor’ traditional dance at the Tomok Village. The cultural village consists of a row of massive wooden houses with striking saddle-shaped thatch roofs made of sugar palm fibre (‘ijuk’), stilted on strong wooden planks, apparently to guard against floods and wild animals in those days.

Tomok Village courtyard where Tor Tor is performed (Raghu Gururaj)

Tor Tor itself is performed by a group of people, characterized by the sounds of pounding of feet and accompanied by ceremonial music using instruments such as the gondang. There is a large open courtyard in the middle of culture village for the dance. When I visited, I was told it was a festive event, and therefore the rhythm of music is more upbeat and cheerful compared to the more solemn ceremonies such as funerals. An Ulos is worn by each dancer.

Tor Tor being performed at Tor Tor village (Pic: Raghu Gururaj)

Tomok Market is a world in itself. Couple of long winding lanes, it comprises hundreds of shops selling decoratives, curios, ethnic products, local textiles (including Ulos) and souvenirs. The local crafts are truly reflective of the Batak culture, exquisitely made, especially the miniature Batak houses, wall masks, wall hanging holders etc. Though their initial prices would be steep, the shopkeepers are not averse to bargaining and in the end, become amenable to work with the tourists.

Street view of Tomok market (Raghu Gururaj)

Curios and decorative items at Tomok market shops (Raghu Gururaj)

A few metres away from the market are the site of Tombs of Sidabutar Kings. History indicates that King Sidabutar was the first to set foot on Samosir Island. The place where he and subsequent Kings lived is what is today known as Tomok, which is where most of ‘must-see places’ are located. Before the Europeans arrived, the Sidabutar Kingdom practiced an indigenous belief known as ‘Parmalim”, basically a form of animism.

Tombs of Sidabutar Kings (pic credit: google)

The Huta Bolon Simanindo Museum is the traditional house inherited by Raja Sidauruk, since converted into a museum. It showcases elements of the fascinating culture of Bataks –rituals, artifacts, traditional house dwelling, puppets etc. An hour inside the museum will take you back several years back in history.

A photo of a puppet show at the museum (google images)

Bukit Holbung Hill, somewhat reminiscent of the ‘Telebully Hills” and in fact, locals love to call it so. Covered by a healthy green grass all over, one can get a bird’s eye view of the geological contours and features of Lake Toba. Another attraction is the Efrata waterfalls, somewhat rustic and undeveloped, but surrounded by incredible scenery.

Ideally one would need a 3 day stay at Samosir to soak in all its beauty, culture and atmosphere. There are umpteen number of hotels (of varying stars), inns and motels. Most of them are located facing Lake Toba, so one need not worry too much about paying a premium for a lake view room. Typically a 4 star would cost US$ 120-180 and inns/motels around US$ 40-60.

There are scores of street restaurants, pizzerias and eateries serving local Batak, Indonesian cuisine and fast food. But don’t close out your Samosir vacation without a vegetarian meal at the Borobudur House, which serves great vegetarian fare and where a statue of Lord Ganesha welcome visitors!!