Astana is an Architectural Wonder

Astana must surely rank as one of world's most astonishing and interesting cities. It rises like a phoenix out of the vast barren emptiness of the steppes of Central Asia's Kazakhstan.

After a three and half hour flight from New Delhi, little did I realize that I would be accosted by a startlingly alien kind of surroundings in erstwhile Astana. The capital city of Kazakhstan looked surreal, incredibly clean and sparsely populated (1 million). It is astounding that though separated by a few hours from Delhi, Kazakhstan presented a world so far removed from India, not just in terms of topography but also culturally.

(Photo credit: Raghu Gururaj)

Kazakhstan is the world's largest landlocked country, larger than Western Europe and 9th largest in the world. For a country of its size, a population of 19 million is ridiculously low.

The capital city of Kazakhstan was a small town meant as a prison camp for families of enemies of the erstwhile Soviet Union. In 1997, the former President Nursultan Nazarbayev shifted the capital away from the lively and cultural city of Almaty located on the eastern border with China. He then proceeded to build a green field capital to rival the best. Astana was renamed Nursultan after its former President in 2018.

Kazakhstan is so richly endowed with oil and mineral resources that one would expect everyone in the country to be earning well. But Kazakhstan remains a middle income country, having poured billions of dollars in creating a capital city that is nothing short of a glittering marvel. It is striving to get listed in the top 50 economies of the world by 2050.

The climate of Astana is extreme and unforgiving. Due to its central location in Asia, the temperature fluctuates between -40 in winter and +35 in summer. Grim winter and grey skies grip the city for about 7 months. White sheets of thick ice cover the roads and pathways. Mounds of snow can seen on either side of the road. Kazakhstan, and Astana in particular, is notoriously windy in winter. 

(Photo credit: Raghu Gururaj)

It is a common sight to see snow clearing machines working tirelessly to keep the streets motorable and walkable. Despite that, driving and even walking in such conditions can be challenging. Instances of people slipping and suffering bone injuries or fractures are an not uncommon sight. 

But the residents are so acclimatized that they go about their daily business without much fuss. The women folk especially walk effortlessly on snowed paths on leather boots with heels.

(Photo credit: Raghu Gururaj)

A short period of glorious summer provide succour and cheer to the residents. The city takes on a colourful look with bright blooming flowers and the greening of trees. The immense Steppes takes over from the periphery of every city in the country. Being a territorially large country, one can see vast swathes of empty lands in between cities.

(Photo credit: Raghu Gururaj)

The buildings are architecturally so futuristic that the Guardian called it the "space station in the steppes", while others have used adjectives like "science fiction" or "weirdest capital", "bizarre" or "other-worldly".

The Yessil river divides the city into the Right Bank and Left Bank. The Right Bank represents the old city where there are the lingering traces of the charming old Soviet architecture and culture. The Left Side is where the modern glitter is. Though I was mesmerised by the glittering Left bank, the old Soviet charm of the right bank is my sentimental favourite. The old Soviet style buildings and apartment blocks in the right bank is so reminiscent of Russian neighbourhoods.

One of the most eye-popping buildings on the Left Bank is the Khan Shatyr, a giant tent shaped super mall. Designed by British architect Norman Foster, it was built to resemble the traditional Kazakh nomadic house 'yurt'.

(Khan Shatyr : Raghu Gururaj)

It was constructed using the latest technology so that the building can maintain 20 to 25 degrees inside, even though it is -20/- 40 outside, which is usually the case.

The Bayterek (meaning a tall poplar tree) in the heart of the city is a monument as well as an observation tower, that seems to symbolize the economic aspirations of the Kazakh people. It embodies a folktale about a mythical tree of life and a magic bird of happiness. The bird, (Samruk) had laid its egg in the crevice between branches of a poplar tree. The observation deck is 97m above ground level, corresponding to 1997, the year in which Astana became the capital.

(Photo credit: Raghu Gururaj)

(Photo credit: Raghu Gururaj)

From its 2nd deck, the Bayterek offers a panoramic 360-degree view of Nursultan and beyond. At the centre of the viewing platform, there is a podium, with a gold imprint of the the hand of former President Nursultan Nazarbayev embedded in a lectern. Visitors are encouraged to place their own hand over the presidential imprint and to look down the impressive avenue of gardens and neo-classical presidential palace and Norman Foster's pyramid. The attendant would say that it is a way to connect with the former President and send a message.

View from the Observation Deck of Bayterek (Photo: Raghu Gururaj)

Nursultan Nazarbayev was the only President that Kazakhstan had known from the time it broke free from the Soviet empire in 1992. He presided over the modernization of the country and was revered as a father figure, until Mr. Kassym Jomart Tokayev became the President following his resignation in 2019. 

The Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, also known as the Pyramid, was built to house the Assembly, This was also designed by British architect Norman Foster. This 62m (200ft) high Palace of Peace and Harmony is not as gigantic as its ancient Egyptian counterparts, but this concrete and glass pyramid is awe-inspiring. It contains a 1500-seat opera house and a circular hall that hosts 200 religious leaders every three years. The Pyramid is host to the Congress of Leaders of World and Traditional Religions with representatives from Judaism, Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, Hinduism & other faiths. Sri Sri Ravishankar had attended one such conference.

The Pyramid (Photo credit: Google images)

The boulevard leading up to the House of Ministries with two shiny golden towers on either side, is another example of supreme architectural excellence (Google images). Though Nursultan is replete with flashy, unorthodox and grandiose buildings, it also reflects aspects of Kazakh culture. Examples of which are the Astana Music Hall, Kazakh Concert Hall, the Presidential Palace and the Hazrat Sultan Mosque (largest mosque in Central Asia).

(Kazakh Concert Hall, Photo credit: Raghu Gururaj)

Some of the structures like the opulent Astana Opera have been modelled on the Russian Opera houses. I was fortunate to witness some gorgeous opera ballets in that wonderful structure. Even some apartment complexes like the Triumph is a carbon copy of the one in Moscow.

(Photo : Raghu Gururaj)

(Photo : Raghu Gururaj)

The city's gorgeous buildings provide ideal backgrounds for holding several outdoor events. The International Day of Yoga was organized against the backdrop of some of these iconic buildings in last few years.

But what catapulted Astana on the world stage was its huge distinctive globe shaped "Nur Alem", the Future Energy Museum built for the Astana Expo in 2016. It is the only building in the world in a form of a sphere, 100 meters tall and 80 meters in diameter. It houses eight floors, each dedicated to a different energy theme. It was designed by German architect Albert Speer Jr., who said that the building epitomizes the last drop of oil and the era when the humankind will switch to the future energy.

Nur Alem (Google)

Unlike in most countries, there are no satellite or subsidiary towns surrounding Nursultan. Instead the city limits lead to vast empty steppe grasslands. Enormous resources are invested to provide consistent heating and lighting to its residents during winter, making it a high-maintenance city.

Kazakh people, especially the older generation, are nostalgic about Bollywood movies, especially of the 70s and 80s. Local residents do sing and listen to popular Bollywood numbers. Don't be surprised if taxi drivers or a layman on the street enquires about Raj Kapoor and Mithun Chakravarthy, as they are still household names.

Despite its harsh winters, emptiness and the mind-blowing, architecture, the warmth and gregarious nature of the residents of Nursultan (known as Astana during my 4 years in the city) has given me enduring life memories.

https://www.transcontinentaltimes.com/2022/01/04/nursultan-is-central-asias-architectural-wonder/