The Island of Principe is Africa’s Eden


The island of Principe is the smaller and more stunning of the two islands that make up the Republic of Sao Tome and Principe. Discovered in 1471 by Portuguese explorers, Principe is an untouched ecological paradise of the world.

As the old twin-prop 18-seat Dornier plane made its slow descent, swathes of virgin forests passed us by on either side, which brought back images from the Jurassic Park movie. Beyond these vast blankets of green cover, I could sight the beautiful white sandy beaches of Principe.



Upon landing, I was overwhelmed by the all-pervading quietness of the place. It was as if the place was untouched by time and space. The airport bore no semblance of hectic activity as the small number of tourists who arrived with me, were quickly on their way to their resorts through arranged transport. The tiny island can be divided into two parts, which are quite distinct to each other. The northern part of the island is flat land and where its 7000 inhabitants live. The Southern part of the island represents the UNESCO Biosphere reserve.

(Google images)

A 10 km tarred road connects the airport to San Antonio, which is the capital and sole city of the island. The pint-sized sleepy town of San Antonio is a medley of old government offices housed in charming colonial buildings belonging to the Portuguese rule, age-stained colonial edifices, untidy utility shops, saloons and small roadside motels. There is a typical noisy market place where locals sell their produce in an open area.

The winding course of Palhota River cuts through the heart of the city, bisecting seaside streets as they weave along the shore through palm groves and muddy swamps.

Beyond the city centre, the tarred road meanders into several muddy trails leading to cute little houses and hamlets. Beyond this, the trail leads to the famous old plantations and the islet of Bom Bom and then on further to the sandy beautiful beaches.

The island is full of green vegetation, virgin forests and old, neglected plantation areas. The best way to navigate is by using a four-wheel jeep, although a boat ride could be equally rewarding to appreciate the beauty of the shoreline, especially the areas that are hard to access by road.


There are four expensive resorts in the island, all of which have been converted from colonial plantation building complexes. Santo Antonio offers some motels, but the island is dominated by plush resorts, which are so expensive that it deters tourists and backpackers who are on a medium budget. So, in that sense, it can be said that Principe is not tourist friendly, because there are no budget accommodations available.

The Southern part of Principe is a unique world in itself. It is so remote and exclusive that the only tourists who come here are those who are driven by a keen interest in ecology and eco-tourism. It captures the heart of every visiting tourist. Lofty mountain peaks and staggering rock towers, carpeted in dense tropical rainforest, can be seen from the city center. These virgin forests contain a wealth of rare and endemic species of flora and fauna.



The island is closeted by beautiful golden beaches that are fringed with elegantly tall palm trees lapped by the turquoise waters of the Atlantic.

The most famous beach on the island is the Banana Beach near which is the luxurious Belo Monte Resort. This beach became famous after a Bacardi Rum commercial was shot there. The Bom Bom Isle is the heart and major tourist hub of the island. The other wonderful beaches are the Macaco, Grande and Boi, which are exclusive areas for the spawning of rare turtles.

(Raghu Gururaj)

(Raghu Gururaj)

It is a magical sight to see some of the most impressive verdant volcanic peaks of the island, all arranged in an orderly fashion. The Mountain Pai, Mountain Filho, Peak Fanado, Peak Mesa, Barriga Branca, Brito Barriga, Monte Papagaio and Fundão and the Peak of Principe are the most exceptional ones. The Peak of Principe is the highest peak in the island, touching 948 meters. The spectacular Bay of Spires is not just Príncipe's top attraction, but of Sao Tome as well. The best view can be seen from a water body where the island’s mountain skyline. stands majestically in a line.

(Raghu Gururaj)

Before independence, Principe had many plantations which produced cocoa and sugar. But after 1975, many of them got neglected and fell into disuse. Consequently, they were either converted into opulent resorts by private entrepreneurs or transformed into secondary forests.

The Sundy plantation, which today houses a beautiful resort, is an iconic place in Principe. It is here that in 1919 the famous English astrophysicist Arthur Stanley Eddington proved that gravity is a function of the curvature of space and time, a significant aspect of Albert Einstein's General Theory of Relativity.

Mark Shuttleworth, a South African millionaire, is an important personality in Principe, as he currently owns about half of the land on the island of Príncipe, where he is developing an ambitious ecological tourism project.

(Sao Tome Tourism)
Apart from its obvious unparalleled beauty, Principe is also known for high quality chocolates and rare leatherback turtles. Several endemic species of plants and animals have been identified inside the bio reserve. There are no ATMs or money changers in sight and one has to pay through cash. But big resorts offer payment facilities through ecommerce platforms like PayPal.

Another interesting aspect is that the locals recycle everything from organic trash to plastics. There is a “Zero Plastic on Principe” campaign on the island. The local government encourages hiking.


In 2012, UNESCO established Principe and its surrounding uninhabited islets as a Biosphere Reserve.This recognition was crucial for the island, as it has enabled the local authorities to actively promote conservation and sustainable development.

The islanders are proud of their biosphere status and it’s something that unites locals and visitors. They take pride in the fact that they are supporting a sustainable economy in this biosphere reserve.

My short visit to Principe gave me a genuine sense of escape from civilization and the pace of modern life.



https://www.transcontinentaltimes.com/2022/05/18/the-island-of-principe-is-africas-eden/

 





 

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