The Herbarium of Bom Sucesso at Obo National Park was a revelation

The remote and enchanting island nation of Sao Tome and Principe, off the coast of Gulf of Guinea, has been recognized as one of the preeminent biodiversity hotspots of the world.

The stark insularity of these islands has enabled the evolution of endemic species to thrive, creating unique species of flora and fauna. They also possess various species introduced by humans, intentionally or accidentally. Several species, because of their strong endemism, have become the subject of scientific research and conservation measures.

Out of over 850 species of plants, 140 of them are considered endemic. The fascination and the unrelenting focus on forest conservation by international researchers, led to the creation of the Ôbo National Park (Parque Natural Ôbo) in 2006. The Park is located about 2 hours away from the city centre.

The botanical garden of Bom Sucesso is the gateway to the Obô National Park. While much has been written about the Obo National Park, the herbarium has been underrated or glossed over.

My visit to the herbarium was quite a revelation. The herbal forest was bursting with a bewildering variety of wild herbs, rare plants and exotic flowers. The park guide gave me an impromptu botany lesson as she guided me through the two-kilometer walk towards the Obo National Park. As she reeled out the names of the many species, she said that there are over a thousand species of plants, including endemic ones, that grow and get nurtured in the herbarium.

As I ambled across the botanical paradise, I could smell the overpowering perfume of the wild flowers, especially the red-orange rose, the spurs and the giant begonia. But the one flower that stood out was the was undoubtedly the dazzling Porcelain Rose (Etlingera Elatior).

The guide explained that the porcelain rose belonged to the Zingiberaceae family, just as the ginger. As we traversed the thick vegetation, I found six feet tall Porcelain rose plants growing exuberantly all across the herbarium.

It is a certainly a distinctive plant with long, bright green leaves supported by powerful stems that are firmly anchored to the ground. According to the guide, as the conical shaped flower develops, it takes on an orange red colour edged with yellow borders and when it blooms, it bursts into bright pink petals. The plant can be grown only on sunny open terraced landscapes with lots of sunlight and water. The Porcelain Rose truly symbolizes the exotic nature of the fascinating twin islands and not surprisingly, it is the national flower of the Republic of São Tomé and Príncipe.

But this flower is not totally endemic to this region, as I recollect having seen it in Indonesia as well. In parts of Indonesia, the stem of the plant is consumed and also used in the local traditional pharmacopoeia. Apparently they have purifying, antibacterial, antifungal and deodorant properties.

Out of 129 species of Orchid species growing in the islands, the guide quickly identified 17 varieties along the way.

I was told that the entire herbal garden turns out a spectacular display of bright and intensely hued flowers in the peak summer months of June to August. I noticed a few ramshackled houses with local people tending to their private vegetable patches. But with no shops or tourists in sight, the silence of the forest was only interrupted by the occasional calls of birds and insects and our own footsteps as we surveyed the greenery.

The walk to the Obo National Park took us about 2 hours. This iconic park itself is something out of this world. Covering an area of about 235 square km and thirty percent of the island area, I was suddenly confronted with lush green forests, mangroves, and Savannah grasslands. Going deeper into the park, we came across many waterfalls, whose pristine waters could be seen cascading down the slopes of the mountains, all the way down to the beaches.

A few metres away was the island’s highest natural mountain, the Bom Sucesso, which overlooked the picturesque village of Bombain. But the highlight of the visit was undoubtedly the Pico Cão Grande, (Great Dog Peak), which is a towering needle-shaped volcanic peak. Standing at a height of over 663 metres, this extinct volcanic peak rises like an urban skyscraper and is surrounded by luxuriant green forest. 

The verdant area surrounding the volcanic peak has attracted keen interest of scientists and researchers due to the high concentration of endemic species. With over 100 different kinds of unique orchids and 600 species of flora, this particular area is also a paradise for bird watchers.

The visit to the Obo National Park, was extremely enjoyable and rejuvenating. The park is truly one of the gems of Sao Tome and one which needs to be cherished, treasured and protected.

Also see my blog on the Rocha Plantations of Sao Tome and the Obo National Park

https://www.transcontinentaltimes.com/2022/05/06/porcelain-rose-the-flower-that-symbolizes-sao-tome-and-principe/