Tchiloli of Sao Tome is a symbol of the coexistence of European and African Cultures

When I first witnessed Tchiloli on the streets of Sao Tome, it made me wonder as to how a medieval European tragedy could become a cultural tradition in the far away islands of São Tomé off the coast of Gulf of Guinea.

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This theatre tradition is a rehashed rendition of the medieval Portuguese play of the Tragedy of Charlemagne and the Marquis of Mantua. The story is about Don Carlota, son and heir of Emperor Charlemagne, who murdered his best friend, Valdevinos, nephew of the Marquis of Mantua, in a hunt. The emperor is then forced to arrest his own son, much against the wishes of the queen.

Tchiloli has become a tradition on the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe for over 500 years. Written in the 16th century by Baltasar Dias, a blind poet from Madeira, the art of Tchiloli was brought to São Tomé by the owners of sugar plantations displaced from the island of Madeira for their entertainment and for other Portuguese settlers.

Gradually, the local people of Sao Tome adapted the Portuguese renaissance text by adding African elements of local traditional rites, values, costumes, choreography, musical instruments and dances. It is fascinating that a story of betrayal, death, passion, moral depravity and justice, has emerged as one of the most important forms of expression of African culture.

(Sao tome Tourism)

Tchiloli is a combination of drama, dance and music. Largely performed by men, Tchiloli actors play out some of the stories associated with the reign of Charlemagne. They also bring to life some episodes of the history of the battle between the Moors and the Christians.

The attire of the actors consists of frock coats, ornate with multicolored ribbons, sequins, cocked hats, masks and white gloves. As they enact episodes, the actors also dance to the music of the orchestra, which consists of flutes and percussion instruments. Such dances are squeezed in between acts.

Music is an essential part of the spectacle as it backs the dancing. The orchestra comprises flutes made of bamboo, drums of various types and sucalos (a native instrument made of a basket with seeds inside).

Interestingly, Tchiloli actors are professionals, who hone their skills in many roles. Such skills and knowledge are transmitted from generation to generation. Tchiloli cannot be compared, by any stretch of imagination, to Indian classical theatre forms that reenact Ramayana or Mahabharata. But it highlights the victory of good over evil, morality over depravity and justice over unfairness.

The stage plays usually lasts for six hours, although there are shorter versions between one and three hours performed on street squares or during religious and social festivals.

Auto de Floripes is an ancient festival in the tiny island of Principe, which is held every 15th of August. On this date, the smallest city in the world – Santo António do Príncipe, becomes the biggest stage in the world for a few hours telling the story of Moors and Christians. Before the onset of pandemic, the festival was receiving many tourists from all over the world to witness Tchiloli.

Tchiloli is the only performing art of Sao Tome that symbolizes the synthesis of African and European traditions and illustrates the coexistence of two different cultures.

Sao Tome is trying hard to maintain and nurture this cultural heritage by popularizing it among the younger generation. Tchiloli is already part of tourist circuit of the country for the international visitor.