Medan Beckons

Anyone on their first Sumatran vacation usually transit Medan to connect to Berastagi Highlands or Lake Toba and Samosir Island, which are already well marked dots on an Indonesian vacation map. But those who decide to stay a day or two in Medan city would face my predicament as they simply do not know what to expect!

My first impression about Medan was - its laid back, somewhat chaotic, rustic and to an extent nondescript. There are lots of narrow back alleys adjacent to main thoroughfares. All modes of surface transport (other than rail) jostle for space –cars, taxis, the omnipresent motorbikes, bicycles, tuk tuks, becaks (trishaws or pedicabs) and vans. You cannot miss the presence of billboards and advertisements signs covering the city’s skyline! With growing interaction with local people, the city’s charm sort of grew on me. I was able to see through its unspectacular façade to discover its cultural mosaic and intriguing traditions.

Capital of North Sumatra, Medan is third largest city in Indonesia, after Jakarta and Surabaya, which makes it the biggest, beyond Java Island. The Dutch came in early 1600s looking for spices and to colonize. After they secured cities in North Sumatra in 1800s under the Anglo-Dutch Treaty, they brought Indian workers to work in palm plantations in North Sumatra. And with them came their architecture and cuisines.

The cultural influences brought by the Dutch, Indians, Chinese, Melayu, Arabs and host of regional ethnicities have shaped Medan into a colourful ethnic and cultural melting pot that it is today.Though Islam is the predominant religion in Medan, the cosmopolitan and multi-ethnic nature of the city does not impose a dress code. Generally conservative, but not ultra conservative, many women do cover their head, but many others don’t either.

As you go around the city, this diversity becomes obvious. The buildings, ethnic conclaves, cuisine, dialects, costumes and heterogenous features of the residents, all point to a harmonious assimilation of diverse imbibed cultural traits.

The Office of Wali Kota (Mayor of Medan), Gemeente Huis, (City Hall), now known as the ‘Heritage’ in Grand Aston Hotel, Nederlandsche Bank and the Old Dutch Post Office (Kantos Pos) are prime relics of Dutch architectural structures.

Old Post Office ‘Kantor Pos’ (Raghu Gururaj)

 

‘Heritage’ Hall in Grand Aston Hotel (Google)

Something I noticed was that the Medanese seemed to have made sure that all heritage colonial Dutch buildings were painted back to their original white colour. Though Shophouse tradition has not taken off in Medan in a big way, despite its geographical proximity to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, it has not died out, unlike in nearby Singapore (a 45 mt flight).

Maimoon Palace, one of beautiful palaces in whole of Indonesia, is admired for its hybrid architectural features of Malay, Moghul and Italian influences. It used to be royal palace of the Sultanate of Deli from 1880 onwards. This 30 room palace comprising two floors and 40 rooms should on one’s bucket list. One can actually dress up in traditional clothing and take a snap.

Maimoon Palace (Istana Maimun) was built by the Sultan of Deli in 1888 (Google)

Medan’s various religions are aptly represented by its standout places of worship. Masjid Al-Mashun or simply Grand Mosque is 100 years old, a relic of the Malaysian Muslim kingdom of Deli and holds a pride of place with the majority Muslim community.

Designed using a mix of 18th century architectural styles from Middle East, India & Europe (Google)

For most Indian Indonesians, Sri Mariamman Temple is a focal point for worship and celebration of South Indian festivals. It is Medan's oldest Hindu temple. A classic Dravidian style of architecture, so typical of many South India temples, it has a storied tower adorned with ornamental Hindu deities.

Built in 1881 by Tamil community that came to Sumatra during 1700 AD (Raghu Gururaj)

 

I could not help but wonder at the Graha Maria Annai Velangkanni, located 20 kms away from downtown. It is an Indian church with a difference. Father James explained to me that he came to Sumatra from South India in 1940s and decided to build a church for the sizable non-Indonesian Christian population in Medan at that time.

Inaugurated in 2005, the Church represents the Velangkani subsect of South India

 (Raghu Gururaj)

His vision was not just to create a place of worship, but also to offer a space for communal and religious harmony. He projected this vision through the architecture of the church, which is a blend of Hindu, Islamic, Buddhist & Indonesian styles of architecture. Biblical quotes and signages are written in 4 languages: Bahasa, English, Tamil and Chinese.

You cannot miss the Maha Vihara Maitreya, which is one of largest Buddhist Viharas (Pagoda) in Southeast Asia. It is a focal point for all Buddhists in Medan. ‘Maitreya’ is derived from Sanskrit, which means ‘love’.

Built in 2008, Maha Vihara Maitreya is located at Cemera Asri Complex (Raghu Gururaj)

Hustle bustle of Little India (Kampung Madras) is unmistakable. Populated by over 7000 people of Indian descent, this ethnic conclave greets you with a medley of colourful Indian textiles, grocery shops and roadside eateries.

Traffic into Little India, Medan (Wikipedia)

People of Indian descent on streets of Little India during a festival (Tribun Medan)

With sights, sounds & smells reminiscent of a Chennai street of 80s, it is also a meeting point during Indian festival season such as Thaipusam, Pongal & Deepavali. ‘Chaya Bharu’ run by an Indian Indonesian, makes a valiant attempt to serve authentic South Indian food. This tiny pocket of India is bound to induce notions of nostalgia, especially among older generation of Indian Indonesians

The original Chinatown is actually not Kesawan District, but around old Jalan Asia, Jalan Selat Panjang and Jalan Semarang (Jalan means street), There are no ethnic structures built in those areas, just old restaurants run by first generation Chinese.

Kesawan Street (Google)

Kesawan District is called Chinatown only because there is Tjong Ah Fie Mansion, a 35-room, 2-storey cultural heritage building and museum built in 1895. Ambling along the archaic area of Kesawan District, older generation Medanis perhaps may find themselves mentally transported 40 years back in time.

It’s best to visit Medan's Chinatown after 6 pm when it’s a lot livelier. Not just for cheap merchandise, also for famous Chinese delights at its roadside eateries. Not to miss the famous Soto Kesawan, which serves out delicious traditional yellow soup named Soto. The ubiquitous roadside shops sell anything from plasticware, knee-shorts to durian and Chinese Hakka noodles.

Archaic Kesawan Street in Chinatown is the oldest in Medan

The upside to Medan’s cultural diversity is the mind boggling variety of culinary options that a tourist can savour. Merdeka Walk is one such place in heart of the city, a real hang out and a culinary cauldron. From roadside eateries, traditional food carts to fine dining, one would need to summon all five senses to enjoy them. MW is open 24 hours with great nightlife spots nightclubs, bars and rappers.

When you go to a restaurant, don’t be surprised if the waiter brings out all the dishes on the menu on to your table, even before you place your order. Those who do not know, it works like this – thumb rule is you are supposed to choose those dishes you like to eat and pay only for those. Rest are taken back to be served at another table!

Merdeka Walk is also a good place for expatriates to hang out (Raghu Gururaj)

One is spoilt for choice whether it’s a Mie Pangsit (Wanton Noodle) or the classic Tiong Sim. Soto Kesawan is a mouth watering coconut milk broth that can tame any acerbic tongue.

Soto Keswan (Soup in coconut broth) Google

Beware of red hot spice up Nasi Padang (rice with chicken), not everyone can handle it. Merdeka’s specialities are surely the local popular snacks like the Bolu Meranti or Bika Ambon Zulayka (sweet sponge cakes)

It would be a sin not to taste Sumatran coffee. Sold almost in every nook and corner of any street, one will be befuddled with options from a full Sumatran’ range of coffees or sip Kopi Susu Dingin (iced café latte) or Mandheling (local black Machete) or durian ice coffee.

Machete and Durian laced Koffees (Google)

Many a time people have tried to coax me into eating Durian, a Southeast Asian fruit which you either simply love or hate. Its smell is so pungent and overpowering that it’s banned in many hotels or carrying on public transport including aeroplanes. You must however give it a try to know if you love it or hate it!

The thing about Medan is that it rains without warning. When it rains, it just pours which could be frustrating for the unsuspecting tourist who walks out with his knapsack after breakfast under blue skies, only to be caught up in a heavy downpour couple of hours later. But the copious tropical rains recede just as fast as they come.

Medan may not be a star as a tourist destination, but it has high utilitarian value as the gateway to North Sumatra. But for a taste of a short and authentic cultural immersion, I would say a 2-day stay in Medan would be rewarding and the friendly people of this city will make sure about that.

Being the main hub to reach Lake Toba region, Highlands and Samosir, Medan is just an hour away by air from major ASEAN capitals like Singapore, KL, Thailand and Manila. It also enjoys direct air connection with London and Amsterdam.